I'm an overachiever in all areas. What can I say?! But sometimes, this nature can get my face into trouble when I overdo it, leaving my skin itchy, tight, and burning. If that scenario feels familiar, you’re in good company. What seems like mild irritation is often a sign of a compromised skin barrier, the protective outer layer that regulates hydration and plays a major role in how smooth, calm, and healthy your skin looks. When that barrier gets repeatedly disrupted (through environmental factors, excess exfoliation, strong retinol serums, and too many skincare products), it can trigger acne, rashes, heightened sensitivity, and even accelerate the appearance of lines and wrinkles.
There's good news, though! Even when you push your routine too far, your skin barrier can recover with the right approach. Below, I'm breaking down exactly what your skin barrier is (aka how you can use it to achieve the best, glowiest face ever), the signs your skin barrier is compromised, and exactly how to heal it and protect it—all with the help of a few dermatologists.
What is your skin barrier?
The skin barrier is the outermost layer of your skin that serves as a protective shield for your face. Basically, the entire purpose of your skin barrier is to protect your skin from environmental stressors, irritation, and inflammation, while holding onto all the good stuff (like moisture, moisture, and more moisture).
Technically, your skin barrier is called the stratum corneum, which is the most superficial layer of your epidermis—think: the top bun on your hamburger. The stratum corneum (skin barrier) is filled with a whole system of cells and lipids that form a barrier to keep your skin healthy, says dermatologist Dana Stern, MD, who likens it to a brick wall. “The cells, aka corneocytes, are the bricks in your skin barrier, while the mortar is made of various lipids, like cholesterol and ceramides,” she explains. And each piece is vital in keeping the ecosystem of your face happy.
What destroys the skin barrier?
Sadly, your skin barrier is way more fragile than a brick wall, and can easily be “destroyed” by environmental factors (sun exposure, pollution, smoking, extreme weather variations), physical damage (over-exfoliating your face or using harsh/irritating products), certain medical conditions (like diabetes), and genetics. Even your age can affect your barrier: “Ceramide levels decrease significantly as we age," says Dr. Stern, “so our skin’s ability to hold onto moisture eventually becomes compromised too."
Obviously, some of these factors are out of your control (see: aging, pollution, desert heat, and freezing winters), but generally, the most severe damage will come from using too-harsh products, like gritty exfoliators, intense acids, and drying sulfates. “When your skin barrier doesn’t have an effective balance of fats, the moisture and hydration that makes your skin look supple, full, and plump will not be maintained,” says Dr. Stern.
How do you know if your skin barrier is damaged?
If your skin barrier is damaged, your skin might be dry, flakey, sensitive, irritated, tingly, burning, and/or itchy. You may also be dealing with rashes and inflammation, since a damaged skin barrier increases your risk of infections and dermatitis, says dermatologist Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, as well as flare-ups of rosacea, eczema, and keratosis pilaris. Another tell-tale sign? “When you use a moisturizer on your skin that you typically tolerate, but it starts to irritate or burn on application,” says dermatologist Chris Tomassian, MD.
Does your skin barrier heal itself?
A damaged skin barrier can usually heal itself within two weeks, depending on the damage, but only if you stop all exfoliators (even acids and retinoids) and switch to gentle, soothing products instead, says Dr. Tomassian. If you keep up the same routine that led to a damaged barrier in the first place, you’re not going to see results (sry). But with time and a simpler routine, your skin barrier will begin to function like normal again, fending off irritants and potential stressors to keep your skin moisturized and healthy.
Should I exfoliate if my skin barrier is damaged?
You should avoid exfoliating with chemical and physical exfoliants (including retinol, AHAs and BHAs, and vitamin C) for two to three weeks once you notice that your skin barrier is damaged, says Dr. Tomassian. After the inflammation, flakes, and irritation have subsided for at least one full week, you can add back one gentle chemical exfoliant (like polyhydroxy acids, PHAs, the mildest of acids) one day a week for another two or three weeks.
How do you get a healthy skin barrier?
The key to a healthy skin barrier is healing it with a simple skincare routine and loading up on rich moisturizers. Stick to a bland and hydrating routine for at least two to three weeks before adding exfoliation back in once or twice a week (in general, even with a healthy skin barrier, you should only use exfoliants three times a week max).
Your skincare routine should include a gentle face wash in the morning and night, followed by a hydrating face serum, and then—most importantly—a rich, barrier-repair cream. If your skin feels tight and dry, you can layer on an occlusive ointment like Vaseline or Aquaphor at the end to seal all that hydration and water into your skin.
Ideally, your skincare routine should be filled with products that contain barrier-repairing ceramides and humectants, says Dr. Stern, adding that topical ceramides mimic your skin’s moisturizing functions to hold onto hydration, while humectants (like hyaluronic acid and glycerin) “pull water molecules from the dermis toward the epidermis to keep your skin moisturized.”
You should also prioritize ingredients already found in your skin, like squalane and urea, or ingredients that mimic those lipids, like jojoba oil. And, as always, try to avoid products filled with fragrance, essential oils, and sulfates, says Dr. Stern, which can irritate your skin and break down your skin barrier over time.
Of course, even the best, most hydrating routine can’t magically fix all skin-barrier issues, especially if you’re dealing with hormonal acne, rosacea, or eczema. Which means your best—and quickest—course of action will be to see a dermatologist who can customize your routine and prescribe topical medications to calm flare-ups asap.
Can a skin barrier be permanently damaged?
It’s highly unlikely that you would permanently damage your skin barrier through normal activities and skincare routines alone. However, it is possible for your skin barrier to be predisposed to breaking down based on genetics, age, prolonged stress, and environmental factors. This is why it’s so important to have a moisturizing skincare routine (that consists of a gentle cleanser, a hydrating serum, and a rich moisturizer) to keep your skin barrier healthy and more resistant to damage.
How long does it take to improve your skin barrier?
How long it takes to improve your skin barrier is dependent on your skin type and how damaged your skin barrier is. If you just went overboard with a face peel or a scrub one time? You should be on the mend within two weeks after sticking to a bland routine. But if you've spent months accidentally breaking down your skin barrier through harsh products, stress, or environmental factors, you might need to change routine for one to two months to get your skin back to normal.
Final thoughts:
If your skin feels dehydrated and inflamed, you might be dealing with a damaged skin barrier. But don’t worry, with a simplified skincare routine (complete with a rich moisturizer) and some time, your skin will be back to normal in a few weeks. But never underestimate the power of your dermatologist when you’re dealing with a compromised skin barrier. Trust: They’ve got your back (and hella moisturizer samples).
Meet the experts:
- Dana Stern, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City.
- Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Hudson Dermatology and Laser Surgery in New York, NY. He’s served as a formula consultant for many skincare brands, including Neutrogena, EltaMD, and CeraVe.
- Chris Tomassian, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of The Dermatology Collective in Glendora, CA.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with more than seven years of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories.
Jesa Marie Calaor was the beauty editor at HearstMade for over a year and has been writing beauty articles for over nine years.
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers skincare, makeup, hair, nails, and more across digital and print. She can generally be found in bright eyeshadow furiously typing her latest feature or hemming and hawing about a new product you "have to try." Prior to Cosmopolitan, she wrote and edited beauty content as an Editor at The Everygirl for four years. Follow her on Instagram for makeup selfies and a new hair 'do every few months.
